The Sinclair QL Forum

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QL Update # 3
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The Microdrive, was REALLY impressed by how simple these are to use, back "in the day" you usually had to type in a command to load a tape, but just pop one of these in and away it goes

And can't believe how *QUICK* those little blighters are !

Abacus loaded in no time !!!

http://www.mediafire.com/view/ud3tjpabv ... C_0080.JPG#

http://www.mediafire.com/view/36pe8rl24 ... C_0081.JPG#

Really impressed how elegant the QL is so far, some really nice touches

Just need to get the RF output fixed now

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QL Update # 4
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The last item that came today from RWAP today was a CLA2310 Chip

After carefully extracting the old chip

http://www.mediafire.com/view/8dyfty8py ... C_0083.JPG#

The Horrid Bleed has gone \o/\o/\o/\o/\o/

http://www.mediafire.com/view/dppfo6b9m ... C_0087.JPG#

Has been running 20 min and no detoriation in picture quality

Now that is what I call a result and Once again BIG THANKS to all for their help, because if I'm honest I was close to just putting it back up for sale and buying a working one, I really didn't know where to start on this as it is my first QL

Good result!

Glad the new 8301 fixed the bleed (and even the blue lines which was a surprise!)

The membrane has metal "tracks" formed on a plastic layer. Over time, where the "tails" (that connect to the QL board) are bent, this causes stress fractures in the plastic which cause small breaks (cracks) in the metal "tracks". The same happens with ZX81, ZX Spectrum (rubber key), ZX Spectrum+ and ZX Spectrum+ 128k membranes.

The only long term cure is a new membrane

Despite what people think, lead based solder IS legal in the UK. You can still buy it. The EU restriction is related to consumer electronics, Because a lot of this is ending up in land fill sites or being sent for "reprocessing" in countries where the poor use dangerous techniques to recover precious metals etc.

For use on retro computers, only use 60/40 22SWG 0.7mm solder with internal flux. Lead free solder will not work properly on components or circuit boards made using lead based solder.

Only use a good quality soldering iron and bit. 15W to 25W is okay for most jobs. Or use a proper temperature controlled iron. Keep in mind that cheap solder stations and soldering irons do not have quality control of the heat level. And China can produce really good stuff, but they also are good at producing down to a low price, but then the quality and safety suffers a lot.

When soldering, if you take longer than 2 to 3 seconds on a normal size solder pad, you are doing something wrong. You apply the wetted /tinned bit to both the pad and the component wire at the same time, then apply the solder to the joint, NOT to the iron. Allow the solder to flow then remove the iron. You can practice on some strip board by using some thin solid core wire (scrap telephone or cat5 network cable for example).

Happy computing

Mark

If you can solder onto strip board it out messing things up, you'll have no difficulty soldering modern day pcbs with solder mask etc. They are far far easier to solder. I've built a few Raspberry Pi boards recently, but my own stuff on strip board suffers as the strips tend to sink the heat so you need longer and get a less good joint. In my opinion. My be I need a bigger iron of course, 15w has been fine for years on pcbs though.

I built myself a couple of strip hoard "arduinos" just for fun. Now I'm thinking of designing my own pcb with Fritzing an having some boards made up simply because they solder easier and are much nicer.

Cheers,
Norm.

For use on retro computers, only use 60/40 22SWG 0.7mm solder with internal flux. Lead free solder will not work properly on components or circuit boards made using lead based solder.

When soldering, if you take longer than 2 to 3 seconds on a normal size solder pad, you are doing something wrong.

How does 30-60 seconds sound lol ...im serious btw, it takes that long for my iron to melt the solder :/
I remember trying to solder a new power jack onto my laptop when the long thin bit of the PCB the jack was attached to actually burned and fell off lol !

I was reading Norms message earlier and he uses a 15w Antex, my iron is shall we say Agricultural I think its massive and I have no idea of the watts, I bought it from a car parts place so was prob for soldering stuff in cars

Does anyone know of any half decent kits on ebay or the likes ?

PS That is interesting about mixing lead free solder with lead based components !

thanks

Gary

For use on retro computers, only use 60/40 22SWG 0.7mm solder with internal flux. Lead free solder will not work properly on components or circuit boards made using lead based solder.

When soldering, if you take longer than 2 to 3 seconds on a normal size solder pad, you are doing something wrong.

How does 30-60 seconds sound lol ...im serious btw, it takes that long for my iron to melt the solder :/
I remember trying to solder a new power jack onto my laptop when the long thin bit of the PCB the jack was attached to actually burned and fell off lol !

I was reading Norms message earlier and he uses a 15w Antex, my iron is shall we say Agricultural I think its massive and I have no idea of the watts, I bought it from a car parts place so was prob for soldering stuff in cars

Does anyone know of any half decent kits on ebay or the likes ?

PS That is interesting about mixing lead free solder with lead based components !

thanks

Gary

I recently bought his one http://www.amazon.co.uk/Watt-C15-solder ... ge_o04_s00 to replace my original 30 plus year old version of he same iron.

HTH

Cheers,
Norm.

Hi Norm

I just bought one of those and the difference is AMAZING !!!!

The one I had was a massive Draper one (Think it was for automotive)

I repaired a faulty power supply tonight and couldn't believe how much easier it was with this soldering iron !!!

Thanks !!!

Gary