The Sinclair QL Forum

re pt1 ,

yes it is a real problem , as all outer eu parcels need to be IOSS or ................you will be charged BIG !!

and be careful as several uk " based " sinclair parts sellers are in fact chinese and NON IOSS .

re pt2 ,
This is after i threw away all wood , dangerous electrics and household sockets and wall-switches .
It looked a bit like this ;
there was a double diskdrive and the owner had taken out the hdd and interface which he had already sold .

the part with the microdrives was used as one-unit so that fitted back rather nice , but the left side of the bottom has been sawed to fit the woodenbox he made , so the sizes were way off .
all was sawed by hand , so not a single straight line an partly re cut to make it fit the wood apparently , and glued to the wood with construction glue - Tec7 - .
so i had to put in more plastic to widen the case to fit the original top-cover , and make everything straight again .
after that i could only rattle-can spray it , looks terrible ( too glossy to my taste , but there is no semigloss clear varnish )but with the topcover on just does the job .

so what am i missing ,

all screws but i can compare to the other ql's i have
all rubber grommets to hold the feet ( feet are 3d printed already ) .
all small plastic covers , but a can 3d print those

Hi,

I thought that I had seen the pictures of the cut up QL, they come from the German QL Form "tlienhard"

https://forum.tlienhard.com/phpBB3/viewtopic.php?t=4415

All in German, but Google Chrome/Brave Browser auto translates.

Yep , that was the build progress.

due to a hdd failure i don't have pictures of the wooden unit anymore , but i can tell you most people would have put it straight in the bin .

the main pcb was "adapted" with electrical wire , and all connectors removed and replaced by extension cables to new connectors ( so it really looked a mess ) .

i have replaced all cables , cleaned the pcb ( mouse house for a decade ) and then re-soldered the connectors .

main pcb works as it should now.


- btw , found a rattle-can matt clear varnish , and now it looks the thing ( matches the top half 95 % )

It's great that you are restoring it. Excited to see what it will look like when complete.

if everything goes well , it should look ( from the top ) like a normal ql .

if tried to use some filler on the bottom , but all fillers i could source are harder than the plastic , so sanding it down creates more problems .

so the bottom from the bottom looks far from original

Hi,

I do not think a filler idea is going to work, you will need the same material to create a covalent bond to the two parts being joined.

The best method, I have seen on other internet sources is to melt plastic of the same type into the join where is it no noticeable and remove the excess, very hard to get a smooth join, but it seems not impossible.

There are a myriad of "how to fix broken plastic parts" all over You Tube at the moment. For some reason, they come highly recommended for me! It seems that those plastic/nylon cable ties much loved by electricians and 3D Printer manufacturers, (Zip ties in America?) can be easily melted using a simple soldering iron and a bit of copper pipe, hammered flat, and suitable shaped.

This one, for example. https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=x4T3KcM ... YXN0aWM%3D was the latest advised for my viewing entertainment.


Cheers,
Norm.

Hi,

Yes that is the sort of thing, assuming the plastic is Thermoplastic, and not Thermoset plastic.

Why not use a Black Tie Wrap ( or zip tie, for the Americans) ?

it melts when heated so sure thermoplast .

i will see how the epoxy glue holds on ......and keep fingers crossed

anyone got a few spare rubber grommets to hold the feet ??




feet have been 3d printed already.