The Sinclair QL Forum

Cristian wrote:

janbredenbeek wrote:One of the few good things Microsoft has ever made

If it had been Sinclair-black instead of PC-white, it would have reached the perfection

There were black versions.

Great! (anyway, it was just a little joke)

stephen_usher wrote:There were black versions.

Are there any pink ones for the ladies?
Here are pictures of my first mouse I think from my 286 that I also used on my 50 MHz 486. Note the 25 way serial connection which is probably why I put 25 ways on the two telephone serial leads from the QL that I never used because the QL died. I put the black push button on the side that I think is a reset to clear lock ups. It also helps with grip to move it around because the shape is crap or should I say not very ergonomic.

This, my Qtronix LYNX-30S Mouse, works with SERmouse (it has a Q in the name, so it ought to I suppose)! There appears to be a seller in the USA on eBay offering them with more than 10 so possibly NOS and possibly of use to someone, even though there are no pics and he/she is asking $45 each:

If your mouse is that yellowed, please gently unscrew it and drop the pieces in boiling water for about 20-30 seconds, then retrobright it or put it in the sun.

The brown is the flame retardant in the plastic leaching to the surface. This creates internal stresses in the plastic, making it very brittle. The comparison is very close to vehicle safety glass. Placing the part in boiling water allows the bromines to freely travel within the plastic and normalise their pressures, making the plastic much less brittle.

Even though the discoloration might remain, at least you won't have buttons randomly breaking off.

Dave wrote:If your mouse is that yellowed, please gently unscrew it and drop the pieces in boiling water for about 20-30 seconds, then retrobright it or put it in the sun.

The brown is the flame retardant in the plastic leaching to the surface. This creates internal stresses in the plastic, making it very brittle. The comparison is very close to vehicle safety glass. Placing the part in boiling water allows the bromines to freely travel within the plastic and normalise their pressures, making the plastic much less brittle.

Even though the discoloration might remain, at least you won't have buttons randomly breaking off.

Yes, I will retro-bright this when I do another round (with an Atari tank mouse and any other small items I may find).

Does anyone has an Idea, how to make a PC mouse doing a cursor emulation with QPC2, as is possible with a Sermouse on QL? Would be good for a few graphic programs.

so i try to make a ser mouse to my ql.... before i start to make enything i tested my 2 mouses and i find tis things
(i have 9db port on my ql wired like ser ports )
so and the 2 mouse lack of CTS... i think neither gona work

Hi,

I am making some QL SER2 to DB9 serial cables, is the correct wiring for SER2 connections to a Serial Mouse: Maybe for SER1 to DB9 SERmouse: The DTR on the mouse is held high by the 12v on the QL?

To make a universal SER1/2 to DB9 cable a little switch to toggle pins: 2/3 and 4/5